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Viticulture is not new in our country. Grape vines were first planted by the Romans, as they considered wine an important product in the diet of their legionaries. Twelve vineyards are recorded in the Domesday Book in Somerset alone. But in 1152 it began to decline because the marriage of Henry II to Eleanor of Aquitaine brought Bordeaux to the English crown as a dowry. This led to more cheaper imported wines…… The situation is not dissimilar to that faced by English wine producers today!
Most of the wine production continued in the monasteries and practically stopped after the dissolution. Some grapes were still grown and a small amount of wine was produced. However, it was mainly by private individuals for personal consumption or purely local sale. For many years, English wine alternated between a fun novelty and a joke for most people.
Around the beginning of the 1980s, a slow revival began. By 1997, more than 400 vineyards had been established in England and Wales, producing 0.2% of the wine bought in Britain.
Producers fought a hard battle against prejudice against British wine. Indeed, it was only five years ago that I met Stephen Brooksbank at the Bath and West Show and tried his Bagborough Medium Dry.
I liked what I tried and recently visited the Bagbar Vineyard and Winery to learn more during the grape harvest if there was anything going on for photos. Stephen told me that they usually harvest the grapes around mid-October, but the actual time depends on sugar levels, which in turn depends on the weather.
I learned that late spring frosts kill young vine shoots. They would be replaced, but would not provide enough sugar until winter. However, contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a Mediterranean summer to grow the best grapes. Only the average southern English summer sun will do that……..provided you don’t have a late frost.
Any soil will do, as long as it is well drained. The south-facing slope is perfect, and that’s the situation at North Wootton Vineyard, near Shepton Mallet, where I went one sunny October afternoon to meet George Martin and his gang of grape pickers.
The first thing I noticed was the complete lack of anything mechanical. Proper grape picking still requires a human eye and touch that no machine can come close to. I noticed that the pickers were wearing surgical gloves. Wouldn’t gardening gloves be better, I asked.
George explained that a thick glove would rob him of the tactile sensation he needed to properly handle the grapes. For the same reason, according to him, collectors were paid daily wages. There was no contract work; this will result in the fruit being mishandled and damaged, or possibly left on the vine.
Picking grapes to taste showed cause for concern. If these grapes were offered to the table in a supermarket, I would immediately refuse them, because they are overripe. The slightest pressure produces juice, and every drop spilled on the way to the winery is a drop less wine in the spring.
“We’ll just finish these few lines,” said George, “and then we’ll go to Bagborough to pick.” The rest of the grapes here are not quite ready yet.” I asked how they decided what to do with the romantic vision of an older, highly experienced gentleman conducting a “taste test”. However, I was told that while you can get a rough idea by tasting the grapes, Stephen will do a simple chemical test that measures sugar levels much more accurately.
I am told that Stephen Brooksbank does not own the land in North Wootton, but he does own the vineyards. This is similar to the traditional “métayage” of France… readers of A Year in Provence may remember that Peter Mayle had this arrangement with his neighbor Faustin.
In the present, Stephen arrived with a pick-up truck and trailer to transport crates of grapes to Bagborough. I followed to see what would happen next. Of course, I didn’t expect Bagborough to be a castle on a hillside looking down a vine-covered valley as far as the eye could see. Not in Somerset anyway. But the house and winery were built of the same pleasant, soft stone as my imaginary castle. Would the wine taste any different if it was produced at an anonymous merchant estate? Probably not ……… but something is missing.
In the yard stood a long trough-like hopper on wheels attached to a tractor. Grapes were loaded into it and crushed by a screw-shaped blade that rotated from the tractor’s power take-off mechanism in the lower part of the hopper.
The composition was on wheels, so it could be driven up to the vineyard and loaded with grapes directly into it. Therefore, there is no loss of juice in the trailer, as it happens when they are transported from the vineyards further. The trailer then travels to the winery and the crushed contents are pumped into the press.
Another illusion appeared. No sturdy peasant women with bare feet to pull up their skirts and jump into the vat to stomp on the grapes! Public health officials probably won’t like it, but in any case, the machine does a much more efficient job.
The grape juice is pumped into vats to begin the lengthy process of filtration and fermentation. It will be five to six months before we see the wine. But they had a few bottles on hand from years past and offered to give me a try.
They have the audacity to put Bagborough Medium Dry in a clear glass bottle. The color conjures up the idea of many things being English…the sunlight on the newly thatched roof, even the Bagbar stone. But this is only one of the wines they produce. The most famous is “Leveret”, a sparkling wine made “using the traditional method of champangisation”.
In fact, they could call it “champagne”… if they wanted to suffer through a whole bunch of French lawyers for the rest of their lives!
And that’s not all. Anyone with a small vineyard but no winery can bring their grapes to Bagborough and make wine for them.
Now there’s an idea! I wonder if our local Council has any south side allotments?
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