Remove Pictures From Old Apple Id To New Apple Id Learn How To Prune Needle Evergreens & Fruit Trees

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Learn How To Prune Needle Evergreens & Fruit Trees

Evergreen needles: Junipers, thuja and yews can be pruned at any time and almost anywhere. With an upright juniper, walk along the branch to be shortened until you reach the side shoots that lie on top of or inside it. Select a lateral shoot that exactly matches the unwanted branch. Slide the clippers under this small branch and make a clean cut. On a sprawling juniper, place the cut so that it faces down and no one will know that a cut has been made. The tiny tuft of greenery that remains will soon harden and begin to replace the branch you removed.

On an upright plant, the cut will be visible, but only for a short time, as new growth will quickly hide it. Never cut junipers and yews with hedge shears unless the plants are part of a formal hedge. to

keep those graceful, natural lines, remove some of the growth at random above the plant. Because yews and thuja tend to replace branches quickly, and because both have hidden buds buried in the bark, you can make cuts almost anywhere. Just make sure to keep the natural shape of the plant.

Do not touch hemlock, fir, spruce, and Douglas fir specimens if possible. Urban gardeners rejoice in their beautiful shapes and colors when they see knee-high plants in the nursery and carry them home. Soon the plant begins to grow vigorously and must be cut or cut. To avoid this problem, look for specialty nurseries that sell many miniature forms of these evergreens. Because they grow very slowly and are difficult to reproduce, their cost is high; but then you have a specimen that will probably outlive your house and still be proportionate to the garden.

Pines can be trimmed if you have a ladder tall enough to handle the entire tree. In the spring, a new growth called a “candle” grows at the ends of all branches. There is usually a central candle surrounded by several slightly smaller ones. You must maintain this aspect ratio. When you cut the center candle in half, cut the side candles that surround it by one-third. If you want to practically stop the growth of the tree, you can cut all the central candles to two or three needle clusters, and the side ones to one or two needle clusters.

Do this pruning when the candles are developed enough that the needles are starting to break away from the papery sheaths, but before they have fully bloomed. A sharp knife is the best tool. Avoid cutting new needles, as the tree will look bobtail for the next two to three years when the new growth is damaged. Needless to say, you should treat the entire tree from top to bottom.

Fruit Trees: Look at commercial fruit tree plantings in your area to determine what form commercial people are using successfully. Apple trees can be pruned using a modified leader system, where a tightly controlled central trunk surrounded by nearly equally strong lateral branches forms the support. Another system used for apple trees is the open-center system, where there is no leader at all, but there are several strong branches almost at one point, low on the trunk, forming a sort of bowl-shaped forest. The same systems are used for the peach, apricot, and nectarine, although the open-centered form is much more common and gives better-

colored fruits.

Plum trees receive minimal pruning, just enough to keep them relatively open in the center and with well-spaced main branches that provide good ventilation throughout the tree and a well-balanced crown. Similarly, cherry is pruned, but cherry is almost not pruned. All cherries and plums can bleed or ooze when branches older than a year are removed, so corrective pruning is almost impossible.

The trick to creating top-notch fruit trees is to start with a low-branching or unbranched (daughter) crossing. Determine the pattern it should accept and crop accordingly. Your county extension agent will provide pamphlets on proper pruning of fruit trees in your area. While the fruit trees are young, do as much pruning as possible in the height of summer. When they come into fruiting, you can remove the excess leafy shoot in the summer, but the main shaping and balancing will need to be done in the winter months after a few hard frosts.

Pears are a kind of law unto themselves. If you want to prune and pinch frequently during the growing season, you can shape them as open center trees or as modified leader trees. Otherwise, let them have a leader, but prune often enough to prevent too much growth in any season, and cut back all side branches frequently.

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