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Instructions Of a Portable Power Saw And Power Sander
PORTABLE ELECTRIC SAW
With a portable electric saw, wood can be sawed at least ten times faster than by hand, and the cuts will be much more accurate and look much better. Saws range from small ones weighing 27/4″ pounds and cutting 5/4″ deep to large 12″ units weighing 34 pounds. It’s best to buy the smallest one that can handle the job. An inexpensive saw will cut 15/8″ depth; that’s enough for more than 97 percent of the slicing you’ll be doing. If you still need to cut deeper, simply turn the wood over and saw it across to meet the first cut.
For a handyman in an apartment or a homeowner who only plans to do small jobs, a small 4″ diameter saw will do just fine. It can cut up to 5/4″. Various blades are available and adjustable guides can be added.
Calculate the distance of the saw plug from the power source. If you will be working over a considerable distance, use an extension cord with sufficient wire size to prevent voltage drops. For distances up to 35 feet, use No. 14 wire or heavier; up to 100 feet use No. 12 wire or heavier. For this purpose, you can purchase extension cords of certain sizes.
Do not overload your light saw. Cut the pieces one at a time as you measure and mark them, instead of doing all the marking at one time and cutting another time. Never force the blade into the work; light, steady pressure is best. Start the saw and listen to it build up to full speed before entering the woods, then let it cut its way – you just direct and design the job. Whenever the cut seems to bind the blade, force a screwdriver or wedge into the cut behind the blade to keep the cut open. Especially make sure your work is well supported. Any movement of the cut board binds the blade or deflects it from the guide line.
And do not allow the engine to overheat. If you find that the motor housing is too hot to touch, stop sawing and do something else while the motor cools, because continued use will damage the motor. As with all cutting tools, always use a clean, sharp blade and keep an extra one handy. Clean the blade with kerosene to soften the resin and gum it collects when cutting unseasoned wood. Wiping the blade with kerosene before cutting such wood prevents gumming during use.
The teeth of a portable saw blade cut upwards, leaving a better edge on the underside of the cut. When cutting plywood, make a mark on the back surface and work face down to protect it. For thinner stamps and veneers, this practice is absolutely necessary. Plan your cut so that the wider base stays on the fulcrum during the cut – usually to the left of the blade. Use guides whenever possible; they provide much more accuracy than just a marked line.
A combination blade is good for general cross cutting and tearing. If you have a large volume of one type of work, replace with the appropriate blade. A crosscut blade works best on plywood and when cutting across wood. For larger sawing volumes, switch to a rip saw blade. The blade under the rod provides a much better and smoother cut finish. Use this where the appearance of the cut is important – for example on work such as open edges and grain routers.
In addition to the cuts shown in the photos, you can make a sheet tongue along the edges of the board with two cuts to the measured depth at right angles to each other. Alternatively, you can make dado cuts by setting the blade to the desired depth, making two parallel cuts and removing the scrap with a chisel. You can also use special washers to make these cuts, attaching them to the spindle next to the blade.
When the family handyman goes to the store for an electric sander, he may well ask for a “sander to do everything around the house”, and there is no more than a perfect home or a pill for all problems. In general, there are three types of sanders: disc, belt, and finishing. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages, as each was designed for a specific purpose.
All disc sanders have a round rubber pad mounted at right angles to the motor drive spindle. Abrasive discs are attached with a flange and screwed into a steel rod, which is held by a drill chuck. Discs are easy to change, and in 5″ and 6″ diameter sizes, the choice of grit (degree of roughness) is large.
Disc grinders typically have over 3,000 rpm and their primary function (by design) is to move material quickly and roughly. If you need to remove a lot of paint or sand a lot of wood, disc sanders are the best for you. They are not intended and therefore not recommended for finishing work. Too many new disc sander owners attack (and “attack” is the only word) the sanding job as if they plan to push the sanding disc through the job. The result is swirls, potholes, stuck or torn discs and an overheating engine. Sanding with 1 flexible disc is best done with speed rather than pressure. If the tool slows down enough that you notice it, take it easy. For best results, keep the disc almost flat and lightly move across the surface. Keep three grits on hand – coarse, medium and fine – and use the right grit for the job. For very heavy duty jobs like exterior window ledges and heavily painted entryway floors where discs load in seconds, try the No. 7/2 Open Coated Disc. It is durable and loads very little. All disc sanders can be used as polishers. Simply remove the abrasive and cover the pad with a sheep’s wool cap.
A belt sander should not be considered by the craftsman who plans to have only one type of sander. In general, belt sanders are designed for heavy-duty work on large, flat surfaces. Portable types are great for leveling large flat areas before preparing for finishing. In the workshop, a stationary belt sander can be clamped for joining as well as for finishing. Instead of being guided by the work, the work is pushed onto the whirling belt. A belt sander will use medium to fine grit abrasive belts for most of its work, and they can remove a lot of material quickly. Belt widths are available from 2″ to 4″ with lengths ranging from 21″ for a 2″ width to approximately 28″ for a 4″ width.
Finish sanders go by many names—orbital, reverse, direct, vibrating, and flat—but they all have one common goal: to provide a clean finish to the surface. They won’t remove paint quickly and don’t work well with wood, but they will provide a smooth, fine surface.
In finish sanders, the abrasive is placed flat on the surface to be treated and moved in very short, rapid motions in all directions. Thanks to this versatility, the tool has a wide range of applications. The choice of abrasives is just as wide, but since finer work is the main objective, medium, fine and very fine grits are likely to be used with it. Use a medium grit to smooth patchwork and drywall plaster seams. For finishing furniture, use small and very small grits. For such purposes, you can also use abrasive cloth “sand mesh”, after it has been cut and installed on the sanding pad.
When refinishing furniture, remove the old varnish or shellac first with a good chemical stripper, because abrasives coarse enough to remove the finish can also scar the wood, and using finer abrasives won’t help because the grit will build up in the first of all. a few seconds. Change grains often. Don’t try to do a job from start to finish with one grade of abrasive. Use finer sand as you go. This does not mean that you need to waste paper. Save the sheets you’ve changed and use them in another job. And on a really good job, don’t use a new letter. Run a fresh sheet over the scrap for a moment, then use it. Fine finishing papers can sometimes have an abrasive lump that leaves swirl marks when using orbital sanders. Always make sure the paper is tight; otherwise its effectiveness will be lost.
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